In the Scottish Highlands, perched on the far northern coast, Wick is known for its dramatic seascapes and its past as one of Europe’s busiest herring ports. Fishing boats no longer crowd the harbour as they once did, but the maritime heritage remains woven into everyday life, and the Caithness town retains a strong sense of local identity and enduring connections to its past.
Few institutions embody the richness of these traditions than the Old Pulteney Distillery.
Founded in 1826 by James Henderson, this year, it is celebrating two centuries of operation in Wick. Located on a quiet residential street, it would be easy to walk past were it not for the name above the door. Inside, the smell of maturing whisky lingers in the air while production continues much as it has for generations.
Old Pulteney: two centuries at the heart of Wick
I met my guide, Erin, in an elegant, recently refurbished tasting bar that forms part of the distillery’s bicentenary preparations.
whisky tasting station (L)
table and chairs in the bar at Old Pulteney (R)
Her father worked at the distillery before her. In a town where industries have come and gone, Old Pulteney remains one of the area’s most enduring employers. The renovated bar and the tasting room combine contemporary design with references to the distillery’s history, including displays of its distinctive bottle shape, inspired by the unusually shaped copper stills used in production. There is a compass below each Old Pulteney bottle “to help you find your way home”, says Erin.
Copper whisky vats (L)
Old Pulteney whisky bottle (M)
Old Pulteney whisky bottles on display (R)
The tour begins not with whisky but with photographs, blown up and mounted on the wall in the bar.
One shows Wick Harbour in its 19th century heyday. The quayside is crowded with workers and barrels. Silver bands marked casks of herring; gold bands identified whisky destined for export. Another photograph, taken in 1886, captures the distillery workforce. Every face is male. Old Pulteney appointed its first female distiller in 2023.
Old photo of Wick Harbour with whisky barrels waiting to be loaded onto a wooden vessel (L), Photo of distillery workers from 1886 (R)
The decision to showcase these images in the refurbishment was a local staff decision. They are a reminder that while ownership has changed – today, Old Pulteney belongs to International Beverage Group, part of the Thai Beverage PLC empire – yet the distillery’s identity remains closely tied to Wick. Around 25 local people work at the site.
Preserving whisky production and a distillery’s past
As the oldest distillery in Caithness, Old Pulteney produces around 1.2 million litres of whisky each year using methods that have remained largely unchanged for two centuries. The process uses locally sourced barley and water from nearby Loch Hempriggs, transported via a lade built in 1807 by engineer Thomas Telford. The watercourse remains in operation today.
The whisky is marketed as “The Maritime Malt” and the sea is central to Old Pulteney’s identity. Warehouses are exposed to Wick’s salty sea air, contributing to the whisky’s distinctive character.
Wooden whisky barrels in the warehouse (L)
wooden whisky barrels in the warehouse (M)
wooden whisky barrels line the corridor of the warehouse (R)
To mark its 200th anniversary, the distillery has released a series of special bottlings. The headline act is a 50-year-old single malt limited to 200 bottles and priced at £20,000. Other anniversary releases are rather more attainable including a 30-year-old whisky, and a distillery-exclusive release matured in Manzanilla sherry casks.
Old Pulteney 12 year old and 15 year old whisky on display (L)
Old Pulteney 25 year old whisky on display (R)
The distillery also maintains a visible presence in the local community through sponsorship of events and heritage projects, including the Harbour Lifeboat Festival and the preservation of the Isabella Fortuna, believed to be Scotland’s oldest floating wooden fishing vessel.
Spirit Safe at Old Pulteney (L)
Plaque for the Spirit Safe at Old Pulteney (R)
Whisky fungus and environmental concerns
But heritage and quality do not shield the industry from criticism and controversy.
Like several Scotch whisky producers, Old Pulteney has faced questions over the presence of Baudoinia compniacensis, better known as whisky fungus. According to scientific research, the fungus thrives on airborne ethanol released during the maturation process, the so-called “Angel’s Share” that evaporates from casks as whisky ages. Some residents living near warehouses have raised concerns about its impact on neighbouring properties, causing blackening of walls, roofs and other structures.
The issue reflects a broader challenge facing Scotland’s whisky industry. Distilleries are often major local employers, cultural landmarks, and a source of pride for their communities, but their environmental and societal impacts increasingly attract scrutiny and cannot be ignored.
As Old Pulteney celebrates its 200th anniversary, that balance may prove as important as any anniversary release. The distillery’s history is inseparable from Wick’s. Its future, too, will depend on how successfully it navigates the relationship between tradition, industry and its connection with the town that surrounds it.
All photos used in the body of this article were taken and supplied by the author.
Old Pulteney Distillery was contacted and given a right of reply regarding the allegations of black mould, as of the date of this publication no reply was forthcoming.
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